mordicai caeli (mordicai) wrote,
mordicai caeli
mordicai

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Endura. (82)

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty by Andrew Bolton, photography by Sølve Sundsbø.

The black Watchtower
rose up into the Heavens,
all draped in McQueen.

It wasn't really a question. After the McQueen: Savage Beauty show, I needed to get the exhibit catalog...especially once I saw how gorgeous it was. The lenticular cover of Lee McQueen's face contrasted with a stylized skull is just the sparkly bit on the lure; the real attraction is the nest of colours & shapes inside, tied to the hook. Andrew Bolton was the curator of the exhibit (along with Harold Koda, Sam Gainsbury & Joseph Bennett) & the catalogue is rightly credited to him. The book is pure glee, tinged with melancholy-- introductions covering McQueen's life, influences, & influence, with an outro by Sarah Burton are all nice gloss, but we're here for the pictures, aren't we? We sure as hell are, & it sure as hell provides them. Sølve Sundsbø deserves oodles of praise for his work here. The "mannequins" are all models who have been altered with make-up & photoshop to appear as blank figures, which is itself a commentary on McQueen's work, especially his more "fashion commentary" pieces like the Armadillo shoe. McQueen's comments on working with Aimee Mullins & creating her prosthetics for the show are a real highlight of the text, but interestingly, this time I was visually attracted to entirely different pieces than I was at the show. where "The Girl Who Lived in the Tree" was the thing that really knocked the wind out of me. This time, it started with a right hook from "Dance of the Twisted Bull", with a strong right punch from "Number 13" & a devastating haymaker in the form of the golden feathers of the final untitled collection. Most importantly, to me, is that I was finally able to sort of out the muddle in my head about why I thought "VOSS" was called "Sanitarium." It is because the denoumant of "VOSS," Michelle Olley in repose with butterflies, was inspired by a photo by Joel-Peter Witkin called "Sanitarium". It is an important moment for me, because that image from "VOSS" is what first caught my eye, many moons ago. I've meant to use it in my roleplaying campaign, but I just haven't found a moment worthy of it. Yet.

Tags: bolton, books, fashion, haiku
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